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How to Get the Most Out of Your Motorcycle Action Cam

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Do you know your favorite motorcycle journalists and YouTubers?

I think we can all agree that a well-positioned camera is a vital part of making your motorcycle ride look great. Considering that most people have riding footage that looks decidedly unimpressive, today we’ll look at the simple techniques I use to get the best images from an action cam, regardless of riding skill.

Believe it or not, it all boils down to three things: settings, positioning, and accessories.

Perfecting Your Motorcycle Camera Settings

It all starts with the correct camera settings for your situation. Adjusting elements like resolution, frame rate, shutter speed, white balance, and field of view will not only affect the sharpness of the image but also brightness, color, perspective, and motion effect. Although you can leave the camera in automatic mode (which often works quite well), these are the manual settings I use on an action cam to get the absolute best image quality:

• Resolution: It depends on the camera, but a simple rule is to select the highest resolution at which the camera can record video. On an action cam, this usually means 4K (3840 x 2160). Keep in mind that something like 4K recording will consume battery faster, use more memory, and sometimes be harder to edit or play on a computer.
• Frame Rate: The general standard is to record at 24 FPS (frames per second) for normal speed and at least 60 FPS for slow motion. However, extra juicy slow motion doesn’t kick in until at least 120 FPS, and sometimes recording at higher FPS will require lowering the resolution. Some people argue that recording at 60 FPS and playing it back in real-time is better for image quality, but I don’t like the artificially smooth effect it creates and am not convinced it’s good for much outside of broadcast sports and video games.
• Shutter Speed: This controls the motion blur in the image, and choosing the right setting is the best way to improve riding footage, in my opinion. The traditional rule for shutter speed is to double the frame rate. So, for standard cinematic production at 24 FPS, it would be a shutter speed of 1/48. However, I find that a shutter speed around 1/60-1/96 is often more usable as it avoids the nauseating amount of motion blur that can come from excessive movement on a motorcycle. The only way to achieve this setting on an action cam, in broad daylight, without overexposing the image is to use an ND filter. We’ll talk more about these filters below, but the essence is that it compensates for the brightness that occurs when filming with a shutter speed that allows natural motion blur.
• White Balance: My big secret here? Set the white balance to automatic. You can technically set it to specified values that correlate to different lighting conditions (~5500K = daylight, for example) but I find that lighting changes so frequently on a motorcycle that letting the camera make those adjustments for you is almost always the best method for capturing accurate colors. Some cameras do this better than others, but my experience with GoPro has been very positive in this regard.
• Field of View (FOV): The most common mistake people make here is choosing too narrow a view. The wider the FOV, the faster things appear and the closer it comes to the perspective of human vision. There are occasions when I want to zoom in on a specific detail, which requires a narrower FOV, but I find that going as wide as possible brings the best results most of the time.

How to Mount Your Motorcycle Camera

Where you need to position a camera on a motorcycle depends on what you’re trying to capture. Do you want to capture the scenery of a mountain pass? Do you want to film a track day to study your lines or show off to your friends? The position that works for one will not necessarily work for the other, so it’s important to give genuine thought to the position before taking off.

In my experience, the most effective camera positions around a motorcycle include:

• Helmet: I prefer having cameras on the front and side of a helmet with the widest field of view possible. I think these positions are the best for bringing the audience along for the ride, as we can see exactly what the rider sees. Whatever you do, don’t put the camera on top of the helmet. It’s a weird perspective, makes everything look slower, and prevents you from wearing that radical helmet mohawk you deserve.
• Gas Tank: A large metal surface sheltered from the wind is usually a great place to mount a camera. I like to put an adhesive mount directly on the tank for hot laps around a track as it captures a rider’s speed and line choice with tons of clarity. You can also flip the camera and face it towards the rider, although depending on the bike this might give you a view up the rider’s nostrils. No judgment if that’s your thing.
• Handlebars: This is the best position for a camera facing the rider, in my experience. Sport bikes with clip-ons can be a bit tricky, but with the right mounting hardware (see below) you can usually secure the camera to any handlebar for a sturdy, wind-protected position. If this isn’t an option, you can also try putting an adhesive mount directly on the surface of a dashboard, although it will likely obstruct your view of anything on said dashboard.
• Miscellaneous: Sometimes motorcycles have a treasure trove of mounting options and sometimes they are intentionally smooth, featureless machines made to cut through the air without resistance. If your bike is fully faired but you still want alternative perspectives, you can try attaching it to a passenger footpeg or a fork stem, or simply sticking an adhesive mount anywhere that captures something interesting. On cruisers and ADV bikes, mounting options are generally abundant. Crash bars, side cases, and luggage racks are just a few of the places you can try.

The Best Accessories for Your Motorcycle Camera

The sheer number of accessories available for action cams can be overwhelming. From clips, mounts, clamps, straps, stickies, lights, microphones, to gimbals; what do you really need? Your situation may vary, but after years of experimenting with every action cam accessory under the sun, these are the ones I use the most:

• RAM Mounts: Many people use RAM products for their phones and GPS, but they are also by far the best solution for versatile camera mounting I have ever experienced: the Tough Claw. The claws are rubber-coated (which helps prevent damage and dampen vibrations) but strong enough to hold a camera steady at over 100 mph, in my experience.
• Adhesive Mounts: As great as RAM mounts are, sometimes they’re too big for the job. When you need a low-profile mounting solution, the best option is an adhesive mount, which gets the camera as close to the mounting surface as possible, keeping it out of the way. Make sure to use tape or a safety cable if you want to ensure the camera is still there when you’re done.
• Chin Mount: Placing a camera on the chin bar of a helmet and setting it to the widest FOV possible is the closest thing you can get to seeing through a rider’s eyes. Some companies like Klim actually make model-specific chin bar clips that slot directly into a helmet vent, but I’ve mostly used the Dango Gripper for dirt helmets and the SoPro for street helmets.
• Helmet Swivel Mount: On occasions when I need to mount on the side of a helmet, a GoPro swivel mount is a must. You can make something work with a K’Nex set of elbows, adapters, and rigid mounts, but a swivel mount reduces the number of elbows needed and makes small adjustments incredibly easy.
• ND Filters: As mentioned earlier, these are filters that reduce the amount of light allowed into the camera. Having one of these compensates for the extra light allowed into the camera by a slower shutter speed and leaves you with even exposure and natural motion blur. Filters are generally available as clips or spin-ons.
• Microphone and Microphone Adapter: The best way to get crisp dialogue or clear exhaust noise from an action cam is to add a microphone. Built-in mics are fine but don’t hold up well against wind.
• Audio Recorder: If you really want to improve your audio, an even better solution is a separate recorder and mic, like the Tascam DR-10L. You’ll need to sync the audio and video in an editing program, but it’s worth it for those who want the best possible sound.
• USB Port/Portable Battery: Since modern action cams usually kill the battery in an hour or two, it’s crucial to have a way to keep them charged while on the go. I don’t think anything beats the flexibility of a portable battery capable of charging your phone, camera, and starting your motorcycle, but even a simple USB port hooked up to the bike can be a real lifesaver for the camera.

Conclusion

Action cams have literally changed the way the world views motorcycling. With a few keystrokes, anyone can be transported into the cockpit of a MotoGP racer, a world traveler, or even a casual Daily Rider. But, with great power comes great responsibility to get footage that captures something. There’s nothing worse than filming the ride of a lifetime only to find the camera was pointed at the sky or fell off the bike before leaving the parking lot.

These tips on how to get better footage are just a starting point: if you have something different that works for what you need or like, keep doing it. The most important thing to remember, beyond any camera settings, position, or accessory, is that the real star of any good video is you and your motorcycle.

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How to Get the Most Out of Your Motorcycle Action Cam

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