How to Maintain and Replace Motorcycle Throttle Cables

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How to Maintain and Replace Motorcycle Throttle Cables

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Twisting the throttle is a fundamental joy of riding a motorcycle, but like any moving part of a bike, throttle cables need maintenance.

Don’t worry; there’s nothing too complicated about taking care of your rider’s noisy lever and its associated parts. In this article, I’ll outline how to inspect and maintain the throttle and how to replace the cables if they’re worn out or too short for the new handlebar you’re installing.

What to Check and How Often

Take a look at the maintenance chart in the owner’s manual, and you’ll see “Throttle Operation” or “Throttle Cables” listed as an inspection you should perform every few thousand miles.

It’s a fairly straightforward check that starts with the throttle tube: make sure it rotates smoothly and snaps shut when released. Then, check the throttle play, which is the amount of rotation before the cable starts pulling. Specifications usually fall in the range of three to six millimeters, measured at the outer diameter of the grip. Finally, visually inspect the cable housing for any damage or kinks that could hinder cable movement, and closely observe the exposed part of the inner cable to see if it’s frayed or corroded.

If Throttle Play Is Off

Most of the time, everything is fine except for the throttle play, which typically increases over time. Ugh, few things make a bike feel less precise than a loose throttle.

To adjust the play, use the barrel adjuster on the throttle cable where it exits the throttle housing. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inward or outward to achieve the desired play. If the adjuster is at its maximum, turn fully inward and then regain most of the play at the throttle body end using the lock nut and adjuster there. Then fine-tune the play using the barrel adjuster towards the bars.

Side note: modern motorcycles have two throttle cables: a “pull” cable that opens the throttle plates and a “push” cable to close them. Technically, both cables pull, and the throttle plates are closed by a spring, but the “push” cable is there as a backup so that if the spring fails or the throttle plates stick for some reason, you can force things shut. Typically, only the “pull” cable is adjustable, and you can more or less ignore the “push” cable.

If Throttle Action Feels Gritty

If the throttle action feels rough or sticky, the throttle tube and/or throttle cables may need lubrication. It’s worth noting that some workshop manuals specify lubricating these components as part of regular maintenance, while others mention it only as a remedy for improper operation. Some cables use a coated inner wire that makes lubrication unnecessary.

To repair the throttle tube, remove the bar end weight, loosen the barrel adjuster on the throttle cable to provide enough play, disassemble the throttle housing (usually held together by two screws), unhook the cables from the throttle tube, and slide the tube off the handlebar end. I know, easier said (read?) than done.

My go-to for degreasing most parts is a cloth soaked in WD-40 or denatured alcohol. Using something similar, clean the bar and throttle tube, then apply a thin layer of multipurpose grease to the bar and slide the throttle tube back on. It should rotate smoothly now.

Since the throttle is already separated – and since the throttle tube might not have caused the issue in the first place – now is a good time to lubricate the cables. You can use a special device to inject aerosol lubricant into the cable housing or create a makeshift funnel with the corner of a plastic bag. Poke a hole in the corner, attach the improvised funnel to the cable end with a rubber band, then fill it with lubricant (regular motor oil works) and stroke the cable up and down to move the material in the housing.

Again, some manuals recommend regularly lubricating cables while others don’t, and I’ve heard different opinions from riders too. Those who ride in dusty conditions sometimes prefer to leave cables dry to avoid attracting sand, while riders in humid climates know it’s important to keep cables well-oiled and thus protected from corrosion.

Regardless of the approach taken, the fact is that control cables are consumable parts, which brings us to…

Replacing Throttle Cables

If your inspection reveals damage, you’ll need to replace the throttle cables.

You might also need to replace them to fit a different handlebar. If you’re switching to lower controls, you can usually cope with the extra slack cable, but when going higher, you’re likely to need longer throttle cables, along with a longer clutch cable and possibly a longer front brake hose. Keep this in mind when contemplating new bars and do your research to see if stock parts will work for your new setup.

In any case, when it comes to getting replacement cables, you can stick to OEM parts or get aftermarket (and customized, if you need a modified length) items from companies like Motion Pro or Barnett. Motion Pro also offers various throttle kits if you want to change coil sizes for quicker or slower throttle action.

When installing cables, the biggest hurdle is routing. It’s important to follow the original path exactly to avoid pinch points, hot engine parts, and other hazards.

Before doing anything, take some photos of the cable route, just for reference. Then disconnect the cables from the throttle housing and down to the throttle body, which might be buried under the tank. (Sorry.) Now it’s just a matter of unclipping any clamps or tabs securing the old cables and pulling them out as you chase them with your new parts. Attach the new cables the same way as the old ones, connect them to the throttle and throttle body, adjust the cable slack, and you’re done.

Keep in mind that cables aren’t lubricated, so if you’ve decided to be in the wet wire camp, put some oil in the cable housings before buttoning everything up.

As a final check after installing new cables (especially if you’ve installed a new handlebar of different height), it’s a good idea to start the bike and turn the handlebars from lock to lock. If the idle increases, it means the cables are being pulled. Either you’ve routed them poorly or you don’t have enough free play at the throttle. In either case, you’ll definitely want to remedy the issue before riding.

And with that not-so-short read, you’re up to speed on caring for and feeding your throttle and throttle cables. We all love twisting the throttle, and ensuring it’s well-maintained helps you keep doing so smoothly for miles to come.

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How to Maintain and Replace Motorcycle Throttle Cables

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How to Maintain and Replace Motorcycle Throttle Cables

SELECT YOUR VEHICLE'S BRAND AND MODEL TO FIND ALL COMPATIBLE PRODUCTS ON RACEXT.