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How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera

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Hello, and Welcome to Racext’s Moto Magazine column, the column aimed exclusively at the world of 2-wheeled vehicles with news, insights and guides, available every day here ru racext.com, today in this article we will talk about “How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera”

 

How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera

Do you know your favorite motorcycle journalists and YouTubers?

I think we can all agree that a well-positioned camera is a vital part of making your ride beautiful. And considering that most people have driving movies that look downright bad, today we’re going to take a look at the simple techniques I use to get the best pictures from an action camera, regardless of driving skill.

Believe it or not, it’s all about three things: settings, placement and accessories.

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Fine-tune your motorcycle’s camera settings

It all starts with the right camera settings for your situation. Adjusting things like resolution, frame rate, shutter speed, white balance, and field of view will not only affect the sharpness of the image, but also the brightness, color, perspective, and effect. movement. While you can leave the camera in automatic mode (which often works quite well), these are the manual settings I use on an action camera to get the absolute best image quality:

• Resolution: Depends on the camera, but a simple rule is to select the highest resolution at which the camera can record video. On an action camera this usually means 4K (3840 x 2160). Keep in mind that something like 4K recording will consume a battery faster, consume more memory, and will sometimes be more difficult to edit or play on a computer.
• Frame rate: The general standard is to record at 24 FPS (frames per second) for normal speed and at least 60 FPS for slow motion. However, the extra juicy slow motion doesn’t trigger until at least 120 FPS and sometimes recording at higher FPS will require you to lower the resolution. Some people argue that recording at 60 FPS and playing it back in real time is better for image quality, but I don’t like the artificially smooth effect it creates and I’m not convinced it’s good for much outside of broadcast sports and video games.
• Shutter speed – this is what controls motion blur in the image and choosing the correct setting is the best way to improve driving footage, in my opinion. The traditional rule for shutter speed is to double the frame rate. So for standard 24 FPS film production that would be a shutter speed of 1/48. However, I find that a shutter speed around 1 / 60-1 / 96 is often more usable as it avoids the sickening amount of motion blur that can result from excessive motion on a motorcycle. The only way to get this setting on an action camera, in broad daylight, without overexposing the image, is to use an ND filter. We’ll talk more about these filters below, but the gist is that it compensates for the brightness that occurs when shooting with a shutter speed that allows for natural motion blur.
• White balance: my big secret here? Set the white balance to automatic. You can technically set this to specified values ​​that are related to different lighting conditions (~ 5500K = daylight, for example) but I find lighting changes so frequently on a motorcycle that letting the camera make those adjustments for you is almost always the best method for capturing accurate colors. Some cameras do it better than others, but my experience with GoPro has been very positive in this regard.
• Field of View: The most common mistake people make here is choosing too narrow a view. The wider the FOV, the faster things appear and the closer it comes to the perspective of human vision. There are occasions when I want to zoom in on a specific detail, which requires a tighter FOV, but I find that going as wide as possible leads to the best results most of the time.

How to mount your motorcycle camera

Where you need to place a camera on a motorcycle depends on what you are trying to achieve. Do you want to capture the scenery of a mountain pass? Do you want to film a day on the track to study your lines or show off for your friends? The position that works for one won’t necessarily work for the other, so it’s important to give the position some genuine thought before taking off.

In my experience, the most effective camera positions around a motorcycle include:

• Helmet: I prefer to have cameras on the front and side of a helmet with the largest possible field of view. I think these positions are the best to take the public with them during the race, as we can see exactly what the rider sees. Whatever you do, don’t put the camera over the helmet. It’s a weird prospect, it makes everything seem slower and keeps you from wearing that radical helmet mohawk you deserve.
• Gas tank: A large metal surface sheltered from the wind is usually a great place to mount a camera. I like to put an adhesive backing directly on the tank for hot laps around a track as it captures a rider’s speed and line choice with a ton of clarity. You can also flip the camera over and look at the rider, although depending on the bike this may give you a view into the rider’s nostrils. No judgment, if that’s your thing.
• Handlebar: This is the best position for a camera facing the rider, in my experience. Clip-on sports bikes can be a little tricky, but with the right mounting hardware (see below) you can usually attach the camera to any handlebar for a sturdy, wind-protected position. If that’s not an option, you can also try placing an adhesive backing directly on the surface of an instrument cluster, although it will likely obstruct your view of whatever is on that cluster.
• Misc: Sometimes bikes have a hoard of mounting options and sometimes they are intentionally smooth, supportless machines made to cut through the air without resistance. If your bike is all faired but you still want alternate perspectives, you can try attaching it to a passenger footboard or fork leg, or just stick an adhesive mount anywhere that captures something interesting. On ADV cruisers and motorcycles, mounting options are generally plentiful. Crash bars, panniers and luggage racks are just some of the places you can try.

The best accessories for your motorcycle camera

The sheer number of accessories available for action cameras can be overwhelming. From clips, mounts, clamps, straps, stickies, lights, microphones and gimbals; what do you really need? Your situation may vary, but after years of experimenting with all the action camera accessories in the sun, these are the ones I use the most:

• RAM mounts: Many people use RAM products for their phones and GPS, but they’re also by far the best versatile camera mounting solution I’ve ever experienced: the Tough Claw. The
  

  the claws are covered with rubber (which helps prevent damage and dampen vibrations) but are strong enough to hold a camera steady at over 100 mph, in my experience.

• Adhesive Mounts: As great as RAM mounts are, they are sometimes too big for the job. When you need a low-profile mounting solution, the best option is an adhesive mount, which brings the camera as close to the mounting surface as possible, thus keeping it away. Make sure you use duct tape or security cable if you want to make sure the camera is still there when you’re done.
• Chin support: Putting a camera on the chin guard of the helmet and setting it to the widest possible FOV is the closest thing you can see
  

  through the eyes of a knight. Some companies like Klim actually make model-specific chin guard clips that fit directly into a helmet’s vent, but I mostly used the Dango Gripper for cross and the SoPro for road helmets.

• Swivel Helmet Mount: On occasions when I need to mount on the side of a helmet, a GoPro Swivel Mount is a must. You can make something work with a K’Nex set of elbows, adapters and rigid mounts, but a swivel mount reduces the number of elbows needed and makes small adjustments incredibly easy.
• ND Filters: As mentioned above, these are filters that reduce the amount of light allowed into the camera. Having one of these compensates for the extra light allowed into the camera by a slower shutter speed and leaves you with even exposure and natural motion blur. Filters are generally available as clips or spin-ons.
• Microphone and microphone adapter: The best way to get crisp dialogue or clear exhaust noise from an action camera is to add a microphone. The built-in microphones are fine but don’t hold up very well in the wind.
• Audio Recorder: If you really want to improve your audio, an even better solution is a completely separate recorder and microphone like the Tascam DR-10L . You’ll need to sync the audio and video in an editing program, but it’s worth it for those who want the best possible sound.
• USB Socket / Portable Battery: Since modern action cameras usually kill the battery in an hour or two, it’s imperative that you have a way to keep them charged while on the go. I don’t think anything beats the flexibility of a portable battery that can charge your phone, camera and start your motorcycle, but even a simple USB plug connected to your motorcycle can be a lifesaver for the camera.

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Conclusion

Action cameras have literally changed the way the world views motorcycling. With just a few taps on a keyboard, anyone can be transported into the cockpit of a MotoGP rider, a world traveler or even a casual Daily Rider. But, with the great power of the action camera comes a great responsibility to get footage that captures something. There is nothing worse than filming the ride of a lifetime only to find that the camera was pointed at the sky or fell off the bike before leaving the parking lot.

These tips on how to get better movies are just a starting point – if you have something different that works for what you need or like, keep moving forward. The most important thing to remember, regardless of any camera setting, position or accessory, is that the real star of any motorcycle video is the person pressing the record button.

 

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How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera

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