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How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera

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How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera

Do you know your favorite motorcycle journalists and YouTubers?

I think we can all agree that a well-placed camera is a vital part of making your motorcycle ride beautiful. And considering that most people have driving footage that looks decidedly not good, today we’ll take a look at the simple techniques I use to get the best looking images from an action camera, regardless of driving skill.

Believe it or not, it’s all about three things: settings, placement, and accessories.

 

Fine-tune your motorcycle camera settings

It all starts with the correct camera settings for your situation. Adjusting items such as resolution, frame rate, shutter speed, white balance and field of view will not only affect the sharpness of the image, but also the brightness, color, perspective and effect movement. While you can leave the camera in auto mode (which often works quite well), these are the manual settings I use on an action camera to get the absolute best image quality:

• Resolution: This depends on the camera, but a simple rule is to select the highest resolution at which the camera can record video. On an action camera this usually means 4K (3840 x 2160). Keep in mind that something like 4K recording will drain a battery faster, consume more memory, and sometimes be harder to edit or play back on a computer.
• Frame rate: The general standard is to record at 24 FPS (frames per second) for normal speed and at least 60 FPS for slow motion. However, the extra juicy slow motion doesn’t kick in until at least 120 FPS, and sometimes recording at higher FPS will require you to lower the resolution. Some people argue that recording at 60 FPS and playing it back in real time is better for image quality, but I don’t like the artificially smooth effect it creates and I’m not convinced it’s good for much outside of broadcast sports and video games.
• Shutter speed: This is what controls motion blur in the image, and choosing the correct setting is the best way to improve driving footage, in my opinion. The traditional rule for shutter speed is to double the frame rate. So, for standard filmmaking at 24 FPS it would be a shutter speed of 1/48. However, I find that a shutter speed around 1/60-1/96 is often more usable as it avoids the nauseating amount of motion blur that can result from excessive movement on a motorcycle. The only way to achieve this setting on an action camera, in broad daylight, without overexposing the image, is to use an ND filter. We’ll talk more about these filters below, but the gist is that it compensates for the brightness that occurs when filming with a shutter speed that allows for natural motion blur.
• White Balance: My big secret here? Set the white balance to automatic. You can technically set it to specified values ​​that correlate to different lighting conditions (~5500K = daylight, for example) but I find that the lighting changes so frequently on a motorcycle that letting the camera make those adjustments for you is almost always the best method for capturing accurate colors. Some cameras do this better than others, but my experience with GoPro has been very positive in this regard.
• Field of View: The most common mistake people make here is choosing too narrow a view. The wider the FOV, the faster things appear and the closer it is to the perspective of human vision. There are occasions when I want to zoom in on a specific detail, which requires a narrower FOV, but I find that going as wide as possible leads to the best results most of the time.

How to mount the camera on your motorcycle

Where you need to place a camera on a motorcycle depends on what you’re trying to achieve. Want to capture the scenery of a mountain pass? Want to film a day at the track to practice your lines or show off for your friends? The position that works for one won’t necessarily work for the other, so it’s important to give the position some genuine thought before taking off.

In my experience, the most effective camera positions around a motorcycle include:

• Helmet: I prefer to have cameras on the front and side of a helmet with as wide a field of view as possible. I think these positions are best for bringing the audience along for the ride, as we can see exactly what the driver sees. Whatever you do, don’t put your camera on top of your helmet. It’s a strange perspective, makes everything seem slower and stops you from wearing that radical helmet mohawk you deserve.
• Gas tank: A large metal surface sheltered from the wind is usually a great place to mount a camera. I like to put an adhesive backing directly on the tank for hot laps around a track as it captures a rider’s speed and line choice with a ton of clarity. You can also flip the camera and face it towards the rider, although depending on the bike this may give you a view up the rider’s nostrils. No judgement, if this is your thing.
• Handlebar: This is the best position for a camera in front of the rider, in my experience. Clip-on sport bikes can be a little tricky, but with the right mounting hardware (see below) you can usually attach the camera to any handlebar for a sturdy, wind-protected position. If that’s not an option, you can also try putting an adhesive backing directly on the surface of an instrument panel, though it will likely obstruct your view of whatever is on said panel.
• Miscellaneous: Sometimes motorcycles have a treasure trove of mounting options, and sometimes they are intentionally smooth, unsupported machines made to cut through the air without resistance. If your bike is all faired but you still want some alternative perspectives, you can try attaching it to a passenger footboard or a fork leg, or simply stick an adhesive mount anywhere that captures something interesting. On ADV cruisers and motorcycles, mounting options are generally plentiful. Crash bars, panniers and roof racks are just some of the places you can try.

The best accessories for your motorcycle camera

The sheer number of accessories available for action cameras can be overwhelming. From clips, to mounts, to clamps, to straps, to stickies, to lights, to microphones and gimbals; what do you really need? Your situation may vary, but after years of experimenting with every action camera accessory under the sun, these are the ones I use the most:

• RAM Mounts: Many people use RAM products for their phones and GPS, but they are also by far the best versatile camera mounting solution I have ever experienced: the Tough Claw. The
  

  the claws are covered in rubber (which helps prevent damage and dampen vibration) but are strong enough to hold a camera steady at more than 100 mph, in my experience.

• Adhesive Mounts: As great as RAM mounts are, sometimes they are too big for the job. When you need a low-profile mounting solution, the best option is an adhesive mount, which brings the camera as close to the mounting surface as possible, thus keeping it out of the way. Be sure to use duct tape or security wire if you want to ensure the camera is still there when you’re done.
• Chin mount: Putting a camera on the chin guard of your helmet and setting it to the widest FOV possible is the closest thing you can see
  

  through the eyes of a knight. Some companies like Klim actually make model-specific chin bar clips that fit directly into a helmet’s vent, but I’ve mostly used the Dango Gripper for helmets from cross and the SoPro for road helmets.

• Helmet Swivel Mount: On occasions when I need to mount to the side of a helmet, a GoPro swivel mount is a must. You can make something work with a K’Nex set of elbows, adapters, and rigid mounts, but a swivel mount reduces the number of elbows needed and makes small adjustments incredibly easy.
• ND Filters: As mentioned above, these are filters that reduce the amount of light allowed into the camera. Having one of these compensates for the extra light allowed into the camera by a slower shutter speed and leaves you with smooth exposure and natural motion blur. Filters are usually available as clip-ons or spin-ons.
• Microphone and Mic Adapter: The best way to get crisp dialogue or clear exhaust noise from an action camera is to add a microphone. The built-in microphones are fine but don’t resist wind very well.
• Audio recorder: If you really want to improve your audio, an even better solution is a completely separate recorder and microphone like the Tascam DR-10L . You’ll have to sync the audio and video in an editing program, but it’s worth it for those who want the best possible sound.
• USB socket/portable battery: Since modern action cameras usually kill the battery in an hour or two, it’s crucial to have a way to keep them charged while on the go. I don’t think anything beats the flexibility of a portable battery that can charge your phone, camera and start your motorcycle, but even a simple USB plug plugged into your motorcycle can be a lifesaver for your camera.

 

Conclusion

Action cameras have literally changed the way the world sees motorcycling. With a few taps on a keyboard, anyone can be transported into the cockpit of a MotoGP rider, a world traveler or even a casual Daily Rider. But, with the great power of the action camera comes a great responsibility to get footage that captures something. There’s nothing worse than filming the ride of a lifetime only to find that the camera was pointed skyward or fell off the bike before leaving the parking lot.

These tips on how to get better footage are just a starting point: if you have something different that works for what you need or like, keep moving forward. The most important thing to remember, beyond any camera settings, positions or accessories, is that the true star of any motorcycle video is the person who presses the record button.Shipping times are approx 7 working days, shipping takes place via fast negotiable shipping.

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How to get the most out of your motorcycle action camera

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