Motorcycle Magazine
How to change the engine oil and filter of your motorcycle
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How to change the engine oil and filter of your motorcycle
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Hello, and Welcome to Racext’s Moto Magazine column, the column aimed exclusively at the world of 2-wheeled vehicles with news, insights and guides, available every day here ru racext.com, today in this article we will talk about “How to change the engine oil and filter of your motorcycle”
How to change the engine oil and filter of your motorcycle
The whole process takes only 20 to 30 minutes and doesn’t require much in the way of tools and supplies. If you have assembled your TSM Toolkit , you already have everything you need. If not, we recommend that you get a drain pan, nitrile gloves, a rag, a wrench to remove the drain plug and a torque wrench to reinstall it, an oil filter wrench, and any tools you could possibly need. having to remove the belly of your bike if necessary. Of course you will also need a new filter, appropriate oil as listed in your manual, and a replacement sealing washer for the drain bolt.
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If your bike has been used recently, give it some time to cool down so you don’t work in hot oil. If your bike is equipped with a center stand or if you have a rear kickstand or front wheel wedge that will likely help you access the belly of the bike, but a kickstand is not necessary. What I would consider necessary is a ground cover to prevent the inevitable drips from staining the garage or driveway. I usually take some cardboard from the basket and put it under the bike.
Equipment matured, bike in position. Now use a rag to wipe the dirt off the drain plug and around the oil filter, then loosen the drain plug with an appropriate combination wrench or a plug from your kit. Once the initial tension on the bolt is exceeded, you should be able to unscrew it by hand and you will know when it is about to release as you will see that the oil begins to seep past the threads.
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At this point make sure the drain pan is under the bike and make sure the pan vent is open so the oil doesn’t boil and spit as it drains and try to place your hand and forearm in so as not to be doused with oil. Even so, I still have a rag in my free hand, ready to wipe the oil off my forearm.
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Keep track of the sealing washer – it usually detaches from the bolt, but sometimes sticks to the engine. If you are working with the bike on the side stand and the drain plug is not on the downstream side of the engine, hold the bike upright for a moment to help drain all of the old oil. As the oil drains, take note of its color and condition, as it can indicate engine problems. It will be dark, but it shouldn’t smell like burning, and if you see metal flakes mixed in, it’s a sign that things aren’t going well with all the moving parts of your engine. Likewise, if the oil is milky or pale, it usually means that the coolant is mixing in the oil, often due to a leaking head gasket.
With the old oil out, it’s time to move on to the oil filter.
Some bikes, like many KTMs and dual-sport Hondas, have internal cartridge filters, while most road bikes use an automotive-style spin-on filter. If you have a cartridge, they’re easy to replace, but make sure you don’t insert the new filter backwards. In fact, go ahead and take a picture of the old filter before removing it, just so you have a reference.
To remove a spin-on filter, use a universal strap wrench, filter pliers or filter socket. With the filter removed, pour the oil into it and drain it onto the drip tray. Now use a clean rag to clean the filter mating surface and make sure the old filter O-ring does not stick to the engine. It is rare, but it can happen and interfere with the installation of the new filter.
Now, your bike’s drain plug probably uses a copper, aluminum, or fiber sealing washer, or perhaps an O-ring. It is always advisable to replace the washer or O-ring, but I will not lie, I will just turn an aluminum or copper washer upside down if it is not chewed. The sealing washer on my wife’s car was rotated nearly 100,000 miles with no problems. Whatever you do, make sure the washer is in place and start the cap by hand before putting a tool on it to make sure you don’t cross the wires; it is easy to do as the bolt is often in an awkward spot.
The typical tightening torque on a drain plug is 14 to 16 foot-pounds, but don’t take my word for it – check your damn manual and please use a torque wrench. New mechanics love over-tightening things and damaging the motor threads – which is what will happen as the threads on the steel bolt are stronger than threads in aluminum crankcase – it’s the easiest way to turn a simple oil change into a minor disaster. If you remove any wires on your bike, don’t worry, we have a video that guides you through repairing the torn wires, including those on the drain plug.
The next easiest way to screw up an oil change? Forgetting to put the oil back into the bike. Don’t laugh, it happens! Your manual will list the type and amount of oil to add and your manual will also say if the oil level needs to be checked with the bike on the side stand or held upright. In any case, once the oil level is set, start the bike and let it run for a minute, then turn it off, double check the oil level – which usually drops a bit because the new filter absorbs some volume – and check the filter and drain plug for leaks.
Top up with oil if necessary, and if everything looks good, that’s it. That’s great, right? If you want to feel even better, call your local dealer and ask them how much it would cost and how long it would take them to handle what you just went through in 30 minutes. I’m not knocking on dealerships and shops, but there’s no reason you shouldn’t go through your oil changes. And now you know how.
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How to change the engine oil and filter of your motorcycle
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