How to change the coolant of your motorcycle

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When should I change the coolant in a liquid cooled motorcycle?

As a general rule, your liquid-cooled motorcycle’s coolant should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles, even if it looks good. Cloudy or brownish coolant should always be drained and replaced. Check your owner’s manual for the coolant replacement interval specific to your motorcycle.

It may also be necessary to change the coolant of the motorcycle for a day on the track. Trackday organizations may require you to drain the coolant and replace it with distilled water in case the system drains en route. These organizations may allow other additives, such as Water Wetter, or they may allow a propylene glycol-based coolant, such as Engine Ice, for example, but not an ethylene glycol-based coolant. And they may have different requirements for advanced levels but not beginner levels, so ask first and make sure you comply with all course rules before arriving.

When should I change the air on an air-cooled motorcycle?

Get out of here.

What is in the motorcycle’s coolant and why does it need to be changed?

Most liquid-cooled motorcycles use a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze to evacuate engine heat through the radiators. Water is a fantastic choice for conducting heat. However, the good old H20 becomes a liability once temperatures drop below freezing. Antifreeze takes care of the ice problem, and different formulations can offer other benefits, such as higher corrosion resistance or a higher boiling point. You will usually see ethylene glycol (toxic) or propylene glycol (non-toxic, but still worthy of being contained) in the standard antifreeze.

Over time, different coolant ingredients can break down. Coolant can also get very dirty, and reduced cooling performance can directly affect the health of your motorcycle.

Which coolant should I use? Can you use car coolant in a motorcycle?

Open your motorcycle manual and see what coolant it wants. The manual will list coolant specifications that you can compare against the wide range of coolants available today. Do a little research to see what other riders are using for your particular model and don’t get too caught up in choosing the perfect, best performing coolant. Just make sure you match the specifications in the manual.

As for the “car coolant”, it depends. I assume you are talking about the standard Prestone green stuff, etc. If it meets all the specs in your manual, sure, you can use automotive green stuff, avoiding silicates if you can. Buy just the right stuff and don’t risk your engine. On a related note, don’t assume the green coolant in your motorcycle is the same as the green coolant used in your car. Modern refrigerants come in a rainbow of colors that don’t necessarily mean the same thing from one formulation to another.

What tools and supplies do I need to change the motorcycle coolant?

Not so much! Here is the full list of what I am using today.

• Service Manual (for coolant capacity and model specific instructions)
• coolant. The FZR requires 2.2 liters of 50/50 ethylene glycol based coolant with corrosion inhibitors for aluminum engines. I am using Zerex 675130 Asian Vehicle Antifreeze.
• One gallon of distilled water for rinsing or mixing with concentrate if needed. The Zerex is prediluted.
• New anti-crushing washer for the drain bolt
• Basic hand tools for removing plastic and parts
• Dish drainer to collect the coolant and some cloths just in case
• Rubber mat. Spilled coolant can mess up driveways, garage floors and sidewalks.
• Small funnel

How to change the coolant of your motorcycle

Make sure your motorcycle is cold before starting. Do not unscrew the radiator cap while the bike is still hot! You will need access to the radiator cap, water pump, and reservoir tank. Get the tools out and dig.

Place the drain pan under the water pump. Not sure where your pump is? Just follow the pipes. Locate the coolant drain plug, usually a small bolt low on the water pump cover, and remove it.

The coolant will come out. Unscrew the radiator cap and the flow should increase significantly.

While you wait for the old coolant to drain, check the hoses for cracking or stiffness, then prepare the new coolant. Read your bottle carefully: the prediluted coolant can enter directly, but otherwise you will have to mix the concentrate with distilled water. Avoid the temptation to use regular tap water, as minerals and other junk may not work well with your cooling system.

With the coolant mostly drained, raise the motorcycle and tilt it side to side to shake out any remaining coolant. I usually fill the system with plain distilled water (hey, that’s cheap) and drain it again, and I always see some color in the stream as it pours into the pan. This is especially important if you are switching refrigerant types, as you should never mix different refrigerants. Say it with me: never mix different refrigerants.

If you are replacing any cooling system components, such as the thermostat or hoses, now is the time to do it. The hoses on the FZR are now 25 years old, so I’m replacing them with a set of new silicone hoses from AS3 Performance.

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The last wash job required is the reservoir tank. Usually a clear plastic container hidden near the engine or in the tail, you’ll want to remove the old coolant stuck inside. If you see any ugly sediment accumulating on the walls, remove the tank from the motorcycle, connect the hose fittings and pour some isopropyl alcohol with a tablespoon of table salt. Vigorous shaking will remove most of the stains and debris. Rinse with distilled water before reinstalling.

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Install your new drain bolt crush washer and discard the old one. Make sure the old washer is not attached to the bolt. Check the torque specifications of the water pump drain plug and reinstall it. My FZR only wants five foot-pounds here, so this isn’t the time for gorilla strength or cheater bars.

Rinsing the motorcycle coolant and radiator

If you want to remove rust or scale from the system before adding new coolant, it is probably best to avoid harsh chemicals. Instead, try a 50/50 blend of vinegar and distilled water. Run the motorcycle until the radiator fan comes on, then turn the motorcycle off and let it cool to room temperature. Drain the vinegar / distilled water mixture, rinse the system again with distilled water only and drain once more. Flushing is recommended for neglected or unknown cooling systems. Otherwise, it is reasonably safe to skip it.

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Adding coolant

Eventually, you can pour that fresh coolant into the filler neck of your cooling system through a funnel. Reduce spills by slowly pouring into the funnel, then pausing to hear the fill system gurgle. It starts pouring again when the sound stops. Tighten the coolant hoses and rock the motorcycle from side to side to get rid of air bubbles.

Your motorcycle may take less than its full capacity when you first fill it up, but don’t worry. Once the system is full, leave the radiator cap open and run the bike for one minute. A few quick laps should shake up any remaining air bubbles. Turn off the bike, double check the levels and add coolant if necessary. Fill the tank to the full line (mine is on the back), put the radiator cap on and you are ready to drive! I typically double-check the coolant level in the reservoir tank after the next bike ride just to make sure everything is copacetic.

How to dispose of the coolant of the motorcycle?

Refrigerants should never be poured into the ground or down the drain, even if they claim to be environmentally friendly. Do not leave open containers of coolant lying around, especially if it is ethylene glycol and especially if you have pets. Dogs seem to like the taste of coolant, for whatever reason. Save Mother Earth and Fido by bottling your old coolant and delivering it to your local auto parts store or recycling program.